Budget Venice

This should be a very short article, since La Serenissima is notorious for being expensive. However, there are always to keep costs down even in costly cities. One way is to stay, as I did recently, in Mestre on the mainland.

Mestre lacks the glamour of Venice--it's a working town noted as a transportation hub. However, trains to Venice take just a few minutes, run frequently and cost only 1.25 euros. In Mestre hotels you get more for the money than in Venice, at the cost of a little convenience. My tour stayed at the Plaza Hotel right across from the train station. It is modern and attractive, with English-speaking staff and a good restaurant called Soul Kitchen downstairs. Our room was small but quiet, and boasted a beautifully tiled bathroom with a big bathtub, very welcome after a long plane ride. The buffet breakfast was copious and good.

We dined the first night at Soul Kitchen, and it was one of our more costly meals. An order of cannelloni with cheese, another of roasted vegetables, two mineral waters and the pane e coperto charge for bread came to about $30 U.S., not at all bad for two people.

In Venice the next day we ate at Brek, an attractive cafeteria on Lista di Spagna near the railway station. A meal of meat lasagna, a flask of wine and a roll cost about $11, just a couple of dollars more than the vaportto fare from Lista di Spagna along the famed Grand Canal to St. Mark's Square, the heart of the city. It is possible to walk all that way, but very easy to get lost in Venice's narrow, winding streets and we were in no shape to try following a walking tour in the morning. Besides, the vaporetto ride is a great way to enjoy Venice's beauty.

Our walking tour guide warned us against eating or even having  coffee on or near St. Mark's Square, where a drink can cost 30 euros. One thing that is free on the square is entrance to the famous church itself.

If you want to stay in Venice itself, check out the lower-cost hotels listed on http://www.eurocheapo.com. and time your visit for low season if you don't want to deal with hordes of fellow travellers.